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Appliance Wattage Calculator: Annual Cost Estimator

This appliance wattage calculator goes from the power figure on the label to a dollar amount on your bill. Enter the running watts (or the amps and voltage if that is all the nameplate lists), how many hours it runs each day, and your electricity rate, and it returns daily and yearly kilowatt-hours plus the operating cost. Optional duty-cycle and standby settings handle cycling appliances like refrigerators and phantom loads. It estimates one appliance at a time; for generator planning, use the running-watt result as one input and check surge watts separately.

Primary output $5.84 per year

Enter the power from the appliance label, daily run time, and your electric rate. Switch to amps and voltage if the label does not list watts.

Choose wattage if the label lists watts. Switch to amps and voltage if the label lists A and V instead.
Continuous running watts from the nameplate, manual, EnergyGuide label, or plug-in watt meter.
Current from the appliance nameplate; used only in amps-and-voltage mode.
Most U.S. outlets are 120 V; many dryers and ranges use 240 V.
Average hours per day the appliance is actively used. For refrigerators, use 24 hours with a duty-cycle factor.
Enter your all-in utility rate as dollars per kWh, such as 0.16 for 16 cents/kWh.
Advanced options
Use Custom for any appliance, or click the refrigerator/freezer preset above to set cycling defaults you can edit.
Use 1 for steady loads. For cycling appliances, enter the fraction of time the compressor or element actually draws running power.
Watts used while plugged in but idle, such as clocks, displays, remote receivers, or power supplies.
Use 365 for year-round appliances and fewer days for seasonal devices.
Answer $5.84 per year
Computed watts 100 W
Daily energy use 0.100 kWh/day
Annual energy use 36.5 kWh/yr
Daily cost $0.02
Monthly cost $0.49
Annual cost $5.84
Show calculation details
Effective active wattage 100 W
Active-use annual cost $5.84
Standby annual cost $0.00

Turn one nameplate into a yearly cost you can trust

The number you get is only as good as the four things you feed it: the power draw, the daily runtime, the rate, and whether the appliance cycles or idles. Get those right and the yearly figure is close enough to compare two models, settle a bill argument, or budget a new device. Here is how to enter each one cleanly.

Pick the entry mode

If the nameplate lists watts, use wattage mode. If it lists only amps and a voltage, switch to amps-and-voltage mode and the calculator multiplies them for you (120 V for standard outlets, 240 V for dryers and ranges).

Cycling loads

For a refrigerator or freezer, leave hours at 24 and use a measured or manufacturer-backed duty-cycle factor when you have one. For example, 0.33 means the compressor draws full power for about one-third of the day.

Standby draw

If the device sits plugged in but idle, enter its standby watts. The calculator charges that phantom load for the hours the appliance is not actively running and reports it as a separate line.

Use your real rate

Pull the all-in price per kWh off a recent bill rather than the default. The prefilled $0.16/kWh is roughly the EIA U.S. average residential price, but state rates vary widely, and the rate drives the entire cost output.

Example: a refrigerator that cycles all day

A fridge rated at 150 W does not run flat out around the clock. Leave hours at 24 and set a duty-cycle factor of 0.33, so the effective wattage is 150 x 0.33 = 49.5 W. Daily energy is 49.5 x 24 / 1000 = 1.19 kWh. Over a full year that is 1.19 x 365 = 434 kWh, and at $0.16/kWh the operating cost lands near $69 a year. Change only the rate to your own and the yearly number moves with it.

Where to read the power figure

Most appliances print their draw on a data plate or nameplate stamped on the back, bottom, side, or inside a door, and the same numbers appear in the owner's manual specifications. Look for watts first. If the plate shows only amps and volts, you do not need to convert anything by hand: enter both values in amps-and-voltage mode and the calculator returns the watts it carries into the energy math.

When the duty-cycle factor matters

Refrigerators, freezers, and some heaters and pumps switch their compressor or element on and off rather than running steadily. Treating that as 24 hours at full power overstates the bill badly. The duty-cycle factor is the fraction of on-time the appliance actually draws rated power; the calculator scales the wattage down by it before computing energy. Leave it at 1 for steady loads like a TV or a lamp, where the device draws roughly constant power whenever it is on.

Active cost versus standby cost

Many electronics keep drawing 1 to 10 W while plugged in and idle, for an indicator light, a clock, or a standby radio. The calculator splits the day into active hours at running power and the remaining hours at standby power, then reports the active and standby shares of the yearly cost separately. That split tells you whether unplugging a device or using a switched strip is worth the bother, or whether the real money is in the active runtime.

Where this estimate stops being exact

The math assumes a flat rate per kWh, a constant voltage, and the same hours every day, so tiered or time-of-use pricing and seasonal swings in runtime will pull the real bill away from the estimate. It also uses running watts only. Motors and compressors briefly spike to a higher starting (surge) draw, which this tool does not model, so do not use the yearly figure to size a generator for an appliance at startup.

References

  1. Standby Power

    Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory · accessed 2026-07-03

  2. Electric Power Monthly, Table 5.6.A — Average Price of Electricity to Ultimate Customers

    U.S. Energy Information Administration · accessed 2026-07-03

  3. Shopping for Home Appliances? Use the EnergyGuide Label

    U.S. Federal Trade Commission · accessed 2026-07-04

  4. SI Units — Electricity and Magnetism

    U.S. National Institute of Standards and Technology · accessed 2026-07-04

Frequently asked questions

Where do I find an appliance's wattage?
Check the data plate or nameplate on the appliance, usually on the back, bottom, side, or inside a door. It lists the rated watts for most models, and the same figures appear in the owner's manual specifications if the label is worn off.
How do I get watts when the label lists only amps and voltage?
Multiply amps by volts to get watts. Switch the calculator to amps-and-voltage mode, enter both values, and it returns the power draw for you. Standard U.S. outlets supply 120 V; large appliances such as electric dryers and ranges typically use 240 V.
How do I estimate what it costs to run an appliance?
Multiply the appliance's watts by its daily hours of use to get watt-hours, divide by 1,000 for kilowatt-hours, then multiply by your utility rate. The calculator runs this chain and scales it to a full year. Because real runtime and rate plans shift, treat the result as a close estimate rather than an exact bill.
Does standby power change the yearly total?
Yes. Many appliances keep drawing a few watts while plugged in but not in use, and that idle draw adds up over the hours the appliance is off each day. Enter the standby watts and the calculator charges that phantom load separately from the active running cost.
How much electricity does an appliance use over a year?
Enter the wattage and your daily run hours and the calculator returns kilowatt-hours per day and per year along with the cost. That is enough to estimate the bill or collect a running-watt input for generator planning, but motor-driven appliances also have a higher starting (surge) draw that this tool does not cover, so check that rating separately when startup load matters.